HANOI

The Vietnamese nation was born among the lagoons and marshes of the Red River Delta around 5000 years ago, and for most of its independent existence, it has been ruled from the area of present-day Hanoi. 

A village existed here at least as early as the 3^rd century AD, and a defensive citadel was established in the 8^th century. The official origins of this great capital city go back to the year 1010. 

According to legend, while the new king, Ly Thai To, was in his royal barge on the river, he saw a golden dragon soar up towards the heavens. This was a good omen, so he moved his court from Hoa Lu to here, renaming his new capital city, Thang Long - “City of the Rising Dragon”. 

The heart of Thang Long Citadel was the king’s sanctuary in the ‘Forbidden City’, but a growing collection of villages of commoners grew up around the walls. 

More name changes over the centuries, and in 1802, the Nguyen dynasty moved their capital from here to the central city of Hue. In 1831, Emperor Minh Mang changed the name of the former royal capital to ‘Ha Noi’ - “City in a bend of the River”. 

While Hanoi was no longer home to royalty, it was destined to soon become an important political centre again. The French colonialists occupied Hanoi in 1883, and it became their main administrative centre for all of French Indo-china (Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos). 

Hanoi became the capital of their new colony of Tonkin (northern Viet Nam). Cochin-china (the southern 1/3^rd of Viet Nam) had become a French colony in 1862. The Nguyen dynasty continued to rule from Hue, nominally at least, until 1945, but the French ‘pulled the strings’, dethroning any patriotic kings who opposed them. 

On September 2, 1945, the free and independent nation of Viet Nam was proclaimed in Hanoi by Ho Chi Minh, before a huge crowd gathered in Ba Dinh Square, near Ho’s mausoleum today. The August Revolution had seized power throughout the country.

The last king, Bao Dai, abdicated power to the new revolutionary republican government, led by Ho, thus ending the feudal monarchy.

This independence was short-lived. The French eventually fought their way back to reclaim their colonial power, with increasing support from the U.S. The Viet Minh had to fight a bloody 9-year war against the French, finally culminating in the historic victory at Dien Bien Phu, which ended French colonialism in Indo-china. 

In 1954, after the Dien Bien Phu victory, Ho’s government returned to Hanoi, greeted by excited crowds. But yet again, foreign interference conspired to deny them the victory they had won on the battlefield, and in Geneva. So began the 21-year American War. 

In 1965, US aircraft began to attack Hanoi, culminating in the infamous B52 bombing campaign of 12 days and nights of Christmas, 1972. Even this could not defeat Hanoi’s fighting spirit, any more than the many earlier invasions by feudal Chinese, Mongols, Japanese, Nationalist Chinese or the French. 

Finally, on April 30, 1975, Viet Nam won its independence and reunification, as the Ho Chi Minh Campaign liberated the south. 

In July 1976, Hanoi was officially declared the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. Hanoi – the heart and soul of Viet Nam – was named City of Peace by UNESCO in the year 2000. In 2010, Hanoi celebrated its official 1000^th Birthday as capital – the oldest continuing capital city in S.E. Asia.

From the rubble of past wars, Hanoi’s future has become a new “Rising Dragon”, and there’s a wealth of historical and spiritual sights to explore.

 

HOAN KIEM LAKE, LAKE OF THE RESTORED SWORD

The name refers to a famous legend of the great Vietnamese hero, King Le Loi, who led a successful uprising against the Chinese in the 15th century. The Lake is still famous for its rare species of very large turtles that occasionally appear!

 

DEN NGOC SON, TEMPLE OF THE JADE MOUND

Founded in the 14^th century, and dedicated to Van Xuong, the God of Literature. Also worshipped here are the national hero General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in 1288; the physician La To; and a martial arts practitioner, Quan Vu. The red bridge was constructed in 1875.

 

BA DA PAGODA

15^th century. Houses an impressive array of Buddha statues. If respectfully dressed, walk right in!

 

ST. JOSEPH’S CATHEDRAL

Neo-Gothic cathedral built by the French in the late 1880’s, and partly financed by two lotteries. The stained glass windows are mostly French originals. The black marble tomb is where the cardinal of Viet Nam was buried in 1990. If the main door is closed, try the side entrance, through the grey, iron gates, at 40 Nha Chung. (Closed 1:00-2:00 pm). To build their Cathedral, the French destroyed one of Hanoi’s oldest pagodas (Bao Thien).

 

FORMER RESIDENCE OF THE FRENCH GOVERNOR OF TONKIN

Built in 1918, now restored and used as the State Guest House for visiting VIPs. As you peer in, maybe note the elegant wrought-iron railings, pitted with bullet-mark souvenirs of the 1945 Revolution. The building appeared in the film, Indochine.

 

OPERA HOUSE

Based on the neo-Baroque Paris Opera. The ionic columns and grey slate tiles were imported from France. Opened in 1922, after taking 10 years to build, it was the jewel in the crown of French Hanoi. In 1945, the Viet Minh proclaimed the August Revolution against French colonialism from its balcony!

 

HISTORY MUSEUM

This late 19^th century building, once an archaeological research institute, is now a centre of general cultural and historical research. It is an excellent museum, recently renovated, and includes relics going back to the Stone Age and Bronze Age, as well as the last Nguyen dynasty.

 

REVOLUTIONARY MUSEUM

Despite what some guidebooks may say, this museum has English captions, and is definitely one of the best of its kind. An excellent insight into Viet Nam’s long struggle for independence against a series of foreign aggressors, and local tyrants. Puts the more recent American War into its historical perspective.

 

PROPAGANDA ART 

This special art culture of Viet Nam can be seen and purchased at various shops. Try 38 Cau Go, 7 Hang Hanh, 8 Nha Chung, 110 Hang Bac, or 45 Trang Tien.

 

WOMEN’S MUSEUM

Includes an informative ethnic minority display, insights into the uniquely Vietnamese Worship of the Mother Goddess, and the role of women in war and peace. Highly recommended.

 

KHAM THIEN STREET

Mostly destroyed on December 26, 1972, in the infamous 12 days and nights of U.S. B52 bombing of Hanoi, during Christmas 1972. The street was home to 287 households with 1,455 people, two handicraft co-ops, four production units, six State-run shops, and the densely populated Ngo Cho (Market Alley).

 

NO. 90 THO NHUOM STREET

This former French villa has a fascinating history. Once owned by a Frenchman, the auditor of the French Governor’s Palace, the cellar was used as a sanctuary for one of Viet Nam’s most wanted communist revolutionaries. Tran Phu, the first General-Secretary of the Indo-china Communist Party, wrote the Party’s political thesis here!

 

19-12 MARKET

(19 December Market)  Named after the date in 1946 when the national war of resistance against the French officially started. The famous original Market closed, and may no longer be there.

 

“HANOI HILTON”

The sarcastic name given to this former prison by American POWs in the 1960’s. The first post-war US Ambassador to Vietnam, Pete Peterson, was once a pilot who was shot down during a bombing raid on a northern village, and imprisoned here.

Originally, the French removed a whole village of earthen stove makers to build this prison, Hoa Lo (“furnace”) prison, where many Vietnamese nationalist leaders were imprisoned, and many were executed by French guillotine. One inmate was Do Muoi, who escaped in 1945 and became general-secretary of the Communist Party nearly 50 years later. The French-built Supreme Court is located conveniently opposite.

Used as a prison until 1994, it used to take up the whole city block. It is now called Hanoi Towers, a commercial complex, Hanoi’s first high-rise building built in 1997, but one section has been retained as a museum. Well worth a visit, and is often open when some other museums are closed.

 

TEMPLE OF LITERATURE

Hanoi’s most revered temple complex and Viet Nam’s principal Confucian sanctuary, dedicated in 1070. Viet Nam’s first university was founded here, in 1076, but most of those buildings were destroyed by French bombs in 1947, leaving few traces among the weeds. One of the few remnants of the Ly king’s original city, despite past reconstructions. Many reconstructed buildings rose from the rubble as part of Hanoi’s 990^th birthday celebrations in 2000.

 

ARMY MUSEUM

An excellent museum, tracing the story of the People’s Army from its foundation in 1944, but really telling national history from the 1930’s to the present-day. Special displays on Dien Bien Phu (1954), and the Spring Campaign (1975). Highly recommended for an understanding of Vietnam’s long struggle for independence and reunification. Climb the flag tower, built in 1812, for some great views of Hanoi.

 

HANOI CITADEL

Take a stroll down a street once closed to the general public! Nguyen Tri Phuong St., running through the restricted Citadel area, was reopened to traffic in 2001, for the first time since the French seized the Royal Citadel in 1883. The street is named after a General who died defending the Citadel from the first attacks against Hanoi by the French in 1873. 

Note the French cannon holes made on April 25, 1882 in the wall near the Citadel gate on Phan Dinh Phung St. The French occupation finally ended in October 1954, but the area remained closed because it then became the headquarters of the Viet Nam People’s Army. Palaces were repeatedly built on the Citadel site by at least eight feudal dynasties. Some have recently been restored and opened to the public to visit.

 

THE OLD QUARTER (“36 STREETS”)

The area was known as “Venice of the Far East” by the early explorers and traders, due to the constant flooding. From the 13^th century, 36 distinct guild areas were set up, specialising in one particular craft or product. Each was separated by a village gate, and over time they evolved into streets named after the original merchandise - ‘Hang’ means selling. 

The French removed the gates, and turned the canals into streets, and today the streets may not sell the original product  but the original name remains. Hanoi’s bustling Old Quarter, with over 800 people  per  hectare, has one of the highest population densities in the world.

Under feudal law, houses were limited to two storeys and could not be taller than the Royal Palace. Note the typical tube houses, which can be as little as a couple of metres wide, but extend back as far as 150 metres!  

Hang Bac (“Silver Street”) is perhaps Vietnam’s oldest urban thoroughfare. Hang Ma - Selling paper products, burnt offerings to the ancestors, for at least 500 years. Hang Quat - Bright red prayer flags for funerals and festivals.

 

LONG BIEN BRIDGE

The first bridge across the Red River, it was originally named Paul Doumer Bridge after the French Governor-General, in its inaugural year 1902. During the American War, it was one of Viet Nam’s most heavily defended targets, which the U.S. never managed to completely destroy. Walk ½ way across to the island.

 

CHUONG DUONG BRIDGE

Second bridge built over the Red River in Hanoi, proudly built by the Vietnamese in the 1980’s, just after the American war.

 

TRAN QUANG KHAI

Original dyke wall, now over 1,000 years old, follows this street.  Red River & To Lich River once flowed through the city centre in a network of canals, teeming with sampans trading in the busy market place. Rivers could rise as high as 8 metres during the monsoon season, so dykes were constructed around the city.

 

DONG XUAN MARKET

Hanoi’s largest covered market. Originally built in 1889, it was the biggest trading centre in northern Viet Nam. After a major fire in 1994, it was reopened in 1996, its old façade intact.

 

GUIDING LIGHT MOSQUE

Built in 1903, by an Indian Islamic community of traders and civil servants. There are about 100 Muslims in Hanoi. This may be the only mosque in northern Vietnam, with about 60 in the country.

 

QUAN CHUONG GATE

First built in 1749. The only remaining gate in the original city wall. It was once closed at night with massive wooden doors.

 

BACH MA TEMPLE

The oldest religious site in the Old Quarter, and the most sacred. It pays homage to the “White Stallion” in the legend of Ly King.  According to this legend, a white horse emerged from the Temple site and galloped west. The king built the citadel walls along the hoof prints, and the white horse was declared the city guardian. The present temple, a sacred centre of Taoist worship, was reconstructed in 18^th & 19^th centuries. Open daily from 7:30-11:00 am & 2:00-6:00 pm.

 

MUSEUM OF INDEPENDENCE

48 Hang Ngang   Uncle Ho’s first house in Hanoi, where he lived for a short time after the success of the August Revolution, and where he wrote Viet Nam’s Declaration of Independence in 1945. Significantly, Ho Chi Minh used the opening words from the American Declaration of Independence, and referred to the French Revolution principles of liberty, equality and fraternity.

Compiled by Bruce McPhie (2002)  

Updated: June 8, 2015